Motorrads Jeff Ward engine build series 2

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Thanks goes to Motorrad for allowing me to post all his hard work without a lot of addition comments.
I like comments but these builds really require a thinning out to help reduce the read time
All the rest of the comments will be Motorrad's unless otherwise indicated.

Round 2 on the Jeff Ward Motor.
Round 1 can be seen here http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.ph ... 918.0.html

Reason for rebuild.. Enuff said on that topic..

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Cylinder back from USChrome... checking bore for straight. as well as piston clearance... SPOT ON.. NOTE:(this spec DOES NOT take the coating into consideration!!).

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Checking Ring end GAP...

My wiseco rings spec BIG at .020 and .021" respectivly... email shot off to wiseco, and will call them tomarrow... this is not acceptable...

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Picture of the ports... cleaned of "flaws"... Nothing changed as far as shape and duration.. (they are matched to the cases now, and the tunnle dividers are same size now, Not sharpened as I dont believe in that, angles are too steep, have too many classes in fluid engineering... ).
Then blasted the ports for a nice uniform texture. (looks smoother than it is. (local race shop let me use their cabinet they do the same to their heads with, Believe it was walnut shells? pistacio?) (smooth intake is a bad thing)

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NEW bearings and seals throughout...
(used OEM crank seals..)

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These K&S kits really are a deal... think it cost me $12.. has EVERY seal in the motor!!! NOTE:(I used OEM crank seals, I have a hard time trusting aftermarket in this crucial area!

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Tranny went in tonight..

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Coated Windowed Piston..

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My comment:
Who did the coating and is the thickness measurable?

Nope not measureable.. I measured the piston before I sent it off.... Its supposed to be .002" which I like. gets the tolerance closer on that .004" that wiseco wants...

Here is the coating.. USCHROME offers this coating WHILE they have your piston anyways.. for an extra $29

http://www.line2linecoatings.com/slickcc.html

uschrome link
http://www.usnicom.com/pistonCoatings.asp

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Okay here we go..

PAY CLOSE ATTENTION to what your bearing house trys to hand you.. I have to specifically ask for "the good stuff" or they will hand you a "made in korea, china, etc" garbage bearing.. Fine for most customers they get (electric motors).. but not me. USA made, Austria, etc for me only.... Ask the price differance between (rubber) sealed and non sealed bearings... somtimes the price differance is worth the added labor of removing seals and grease...

All numbers will swap between NTN, NSK, SKF..... ETC... timken runs differant numbers.. and all manufactures run differant seal coding so.. yea...
I will post the BEARING NUMBER only... NOT THE SEAL CODE .. as this is not neccisary.. (the VV part etc) But when you go to get your bearings.. you need all NON SEALED bearings, (or rubber sealed if you dont mind popping off the seals and cleaning out grease)..

You can get them in what ever "C" rating you want.. the C rating is the tolerance on the bearing... (for example the kips etc stock are C2).. I changed to C3 (looser, so it spins better)

After the part number etc, I will list a X# the # is how many you need for this section of the motor...

An example of the Bearing part number (so you can understand how to put all this together is)....
lets use the main bearings as an example...
My bearings are made by NSK.. the "Oficial part number) is 6306VVC3... to decode this... the 6306 is the bearing (size etc)... the VV is the seal code. (VV is doubble rubber seal) and the C3 is the tolerance spec.... (note on alot of C2 bearings. it wont bein the part number, as C2 is standard)
SO>.. going off this.. if you wanted a Main bearing that was NOT SEALED... and a C2 rating.. you would need a 6306 (yep thats it)... If you wanted a non sealed, C3 rated bearing.. ti would be a 6306C3 (somtimes listed as 6306/c3) all depends on bearing manufacture...

Hope this helps..


Main bearings.
(NSK) 6306 ( Not sure what OEM rating is, but I run C3 rated) X2

KIPS bearings
(NSK) 608 (Stock is a C2 rating, I run C3) X2

Water Pump
(NSK) 608 (Stock is a C2 rating, I run C3) X2

Clutch Pressure plate
(NSK) 6001 (Stock is a C2, I run C3) X1

Shift Drum bearing
(NSK) 6905 (stock is a C2 I run a C3) X1

Transmission LEFT CASE

(NSK) 6305 (I run a C3, OEM is C2) (replaces OEM part number 92045-1011) X1

(OEM) This is the bearing My bearing house cant get.. so OEM it is 92045-0013 X1

Transmission RIGHT CASE

(NTN) 63/22 (I run a C3, OEM is C2) (Replaces OEM part number 92045-1134) X1
(special note on this bearing... ALOT of the ones out there now have a Plastic cage... Request a metal one, and CHECK IT before you leave
I Just dont trust plastic cages in transmissions....)

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A word on Loctite...
It is both your best friend.. and YOUR WORSE ENEMY!!!

Know where to use it... and how to use it... STRONGER IS NOT BETTER!

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Yes.. I use retaining compound.. there are ALOT of differant kinds of retaining compound... differant strengths, set times, temp ranges, tolerance's to fuel, oil and so on... I like 648, sets fast (5min work time, 24hr set) but it isnt affected by fuel, ethonal, oil, etc...

USES... DONT USE ALOT... When I put in for example a tranny bearing... Ill put a VERY VERY small spot (this stuf has a 4500PSI break strength) on 2 sides of the bearing (opposite each other)... its enough that when its time to get it out.. you can... but will aid in not spinning in the case.... IF you were to put this stuff around the entire bearing... GOOD LUCK getting it apart again without buying a set of cases...

Think ahead... if your doing a main bearing... and want to "retain" it to both the crank, and the case... make for darn sure one side has VERY little on it so it will come loose... (I like to use more on the crank, as it tends to spin, and when apart, if the bearings come out stuck to the crank, I can take HEAT to it to get rid of the loctite)

Retaining compound can be a savior for some of you that have "worn" cranks.. or have had a bearing spin on it in the past... as they make this stuff to fill .006-.015" gaps!!!!!!.. I have saved many Old VERY HARD TO GET parts this way.. (Norton transmission, CZ cranks, etc).. just polish out the galling from the spun bearing.. and GLUE HER IN..

I USE this stuff every day at work... and know how it behaves... WHEN IN DOUBT, or your not sure, comfortable etc... DONT USE IT.. you will do MORE HARM THAN GOOD.. and will destroy stuff trying to get it apart again!!!

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Lets see... bike history while in my custody.

Bought bike 10-15-2008 (with a "fresh rebuild motor") To Replace my VERY TIRED 1987 K5
First trip to the desert with her was holoween weekend 2008 (29-31)

Bike ran great, till I actually loaded it, and it started drinking its own tranny fluid and stuck a piston (in a sand wash). the reason it did this, is my crank journals (where the seals ride) were Undersized. so the seals wouldnt seal properly under a good load.. (I should have leak down tested it when I bought it or before I took it out... but didnt, as the motor was done by a BIG NAME (used to run the dyno's for Team green!) so I trusted it..... rolleyes

Bike Blew up on 10-30-2008

Motor shipped out from me to ........ 11-27-2008
........... recieved it and dissasembled on 12-05-2008

Motor RE- PUT together (I wont say assembled here) 03-24-2010 (1 year, 3 months, 19 days)

Motor Back in my hands 3-26-2010 (yes overnight shiped it trying to make the last race of the season.. wouldnt start due to sheared flywheel key, (didnt have time to remedy, so it missed the race.))

Garage heat cycle etc....

First RIDE (moving under its own power).. and trip to the desert. (took a while due to JOB, family issues, I GOT THE MOTOR BACK OUT OF MY RIDING SEASON! because of off season, I did front end fork conversion.. etc) 11-20-2010

Motor Blew up 11-22-2010 (approx 2.5 gal of fuel on it)

Back in town 11-24-2010.

Motor stripped 12-1-2010 (holidays messed that one up)

Took the month to consider what I was going to do... (had to seriously talk myself out of a 525xc KTm with a plate) Really didnt start rebiuild or sending things off till about 1-04-2010

Crank sent to hard chrome plater. 3 week turn around
Week of CYL port cleaning (on my part)
CYL sent to US chrome (3 week turnaround)
piston from Jfab.
crank back, then sent right back out to get full rebuild/Balance/web machine (make same size) (new rod, pin, bearings, etc)
Left case, and head off to larry for comp release and welding.

And I believe thats where I stand today.. waiting on cases, and cranks...
So.. im looking at a down time of about 3 months (im guessing). Not bad considering my motor parts have seen more of the USA than I have...

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Comment from Ben:
I reread this post and all that I gleaned was that it may have had a defective piston pin bearing. Just out of curiosity, did you use the Wiseco bearing, or a Kawi OEM?
Did you check out the small end rod journal for damage? Finally, did you make sure that the journal axis was parallel with the crank/base gasket surface. A couple of 1-2-3 blocks and feeler gauges could confirm this.
I know that you have had every Tom, Dick and Harry talking to you about this. I am not trying to criticize, only trying to help so that "the third time is the charm".
Ben

Motorrad:
Doesnt answer his phone anymore... I have tried to find out what the story on the small end bearing was... But alas I cant... Talking to others on here, they tell me that he had mentioned to them that "inspecting" the bearing and if it looks good then running used bearings is fine... So I suspect it was a USED bearing... that let go...
The rod looks good.. Surprisingly.. the journals look perfect..... but it shoved so much stuff into the head etc. I dont trust it anymore.. so a new OEM one is going in..
Unfortunately I tore it all down before I checked crank center, etc... But you can be darn sure it will be right this time around..

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Hmm very interesting... I know my head was setup at .062 from Stewart... I think dougs was in the same area..
Why does Doordie have listed all over the place that 1.3mm (.051) is head banger territory... Perhapse he is speaking of pinging with a non recut angle etc? Hmm now you have my interest....
2 stroke head design theory is a new one in my book. so I dont know all the answers...