KX Guru Racing

Timesaver lapping compound for Aluminum and soft metals.
This was highly recommend by Motorrad for lapping aluminum.
Here is a link to a website with the full product description:

http://www.ws2coating.com/timesaverlapp ... ounds.aspx

Here is the basics:
Unlike other lapping compounds, Timesaver Lapping Compounds do not contain emery, silicon carbide, aluminum oxide or similar permanent charging abrasives. It will not charge into any metal surface or continue to cut. The lapping compound has a cutting action that is rapid at first and gradually diminishes as the abrasive particles disintegrate into inoperative material. The finishing action is such that surface irregularities and surplus metal is gently and quickly removed without disturbing the natural metal structure.

Timesaver Lapping Compound is manufactured expressly for the purpose of fitting and smoothing the bearing or contacting surfaces of rotating, oscillating or sliding parts of a mechanism. Assembly lapping of parts with Timesaver Lapping Compound, regardless of shape, size or the part involved, will result in precision fits, proper oil clearance and a microscopically fine finish.

Timesaver Lapping Compound cannot replace all of the other lapping compounds available, but if you are hand fitting pieces, have a hot bearing, gear noise or other demanding application where complete disassembly is not desirable, Timesaver Lapping Compounds may be the answer.

RECOMMENDED FOR : Fitting babbit bearing, brass valves, bronze bushings, bronze worm gears, fitting brass, babbitt and other soft metal guides, cooling down hot journal bearings without disassembly and similar uses.

I just received a can of it late on Friday so expect an update as I plan on using it for lapping my engine cases together
Motorrad recommends using ATF as the oil so I will go with that.
Pics and updates coming soon.

Here is some pics of the can it comes in.

Here is some aluminum mounts that I will be using as test pieces that I have for my AF project
I didn't have anything to mix it in so I cleaned off a spot on my work bench and put it right on top pf the aluminum top.
Add a little ATF
Mix it up
I applied it to both surfaces and started rubbing them together round and round.

I added a little ATF every now and again and after about 2-3 minutes I stopped and cleaned the mounts up.
These are VERY smooth.....
I'm sure if I spent some more time with it I could even get them better but flat is flat and smooth is smooth enough for this test.
Since they were fairly smooth to begin with I decided to do it on some surfaces that were a lot rougher which was the edges of the mounts.
After a few minutes and a few shots of ATF I cleaned them up.
I am blown away....
When done the edges are very smooth and there is no residue that will continue to cut.
This stuff is amazing.
I read the can and discovered that there is special instructions inside.
I will get those out later and read them.
Probably did something wrong but we'll see

For now I give this product a 5 out of 5 star rating.
Thanks goes to Motorrad for his suggestion on using this product and using ATF as the oil in the mix.

I just did another build and used this stuff on my cases, cylinder, and head...
The more I use it.... The more I like it..

I was prepping a set of K5 Cases today before installing the new bearings and seals.
One of my steps is using Timesaver.
In my opinion, any cases that mate with no gaskets should have Timesaver used on them.
So, I applied the Timesaver and started working the cases.
After about 5 minutes or so I pulled the cases apart and noticed a huge hollow spot in the middle of the cases where no contact was being made
You can tell because the outside of the case mating surfaces were black and the hollow spot in the middle was still yellow.
These were the worst K5 cases I have ever seen.
You may or may not have been able to use enough Yamabond to make it not leak air but why take the chance...
About 45 minutes to a hour later the case mating surfaces are smooth and nice.
Timesaver to the rescue...

Now... Some have questioned whether or not this may be removing too much material and put a bind on the trans or the crank.
My guess is no, but we will see...

I was asked this at Supermotojunkie:

Any guess on how much material you took off? And are you worried about taking to much off one case end, and not the other? Could it create a miss-alignment for the trans shaft bearings? Not too worried about the crank, that is a huge bearing as if compared and should have a lot of slop to make room with. Thoughts?

Here is a pic of the area that was not very good as highlighted in red.
This is not the actual case that had to be lapped but it is a KX500 case.
In fact it was the original mating case to one of the halves that we lapped.
This one was a bit too far gone for my liking so we supplied another case.
The amount that was lapped?
Hard to say because I did not measure it but my guess is about .001-.002" which is why I don't think there will be any problems.
I am not worried about taking too much material off.
Timesaver is very forgiving.
It cuts but not super fast so it is easy to keep even pressure.
And, you check it every minute or so to see how it is cutting and add more Timesaver as required so there is plenty of time to see if you are lapping unevenly.... And, one more trick.
You put a bolt in one end of the case lightly holding them together, then you sweep the opposite end back and forth for a minute, pull the bolt out and place it in the opposite end of the case. Then sweep the opposite end back and forth for about a minute. Then, continue to move the bolt around is a star pattern until you do the whole thing. We actually made about 4 complete patterns before we got all the low area smooth.
I agree on the main bearings... there is a lot of room there so no worries.
The trans would be my biggest concern but even then, I'm still not worried.
But, that is why I do a lot of these things so I can prove it or disprove it.

Might have to get some of this. Walked by the KX5 and can see a puddle under it. Buried enough I did not worm my way in to see what it is. Bike has been sitting since the front brake switch snapped the wires off during my last ride. Got the new pressure switch but have not put it on yet. I will check where the leak is then. I will put some heavier wire protector on it so it does not vibrate so much or bend with the wind.
Could be liquid as it overflowed after the last ride in 90+ heat and pushing it a bit. I have a small (and old) pressure cap so it may not be resisting much. I have a radiator cap pressure tester but have not checked it yet.
It's always something!

Or, send me your bare degreased cases and I will lap them and then vapor blast them....