KX Guru Racing

2004 HONDA CR250 does not want to start, what's wrong?????
I bought this bike about a week ago.
It ran a little rough at first but now it won't start unless I push start it.
Can you help me please?

Hello.
Have you checked the compression with a compression gauge?
Do you know when the last time the top end was rebuilt?

I don't have a compression gage but it feels like strong compression when you kick it.

Sometimes there are other problems which can make it feel like the compression is good but you can't be sure unless you put a gauge on it.
If you don't have a gauge take your spark plug with you down to your nearest auto parts store and rent a compression gauge.
You will need your spark plug because you need to make sure the gauge will fit your threads as there are many different thread sizes.
Also, when you get the gauge and screw it in, BEFORE you kick the bike over, turn the bike over slowly by hand to be sure the piston does not make contact with the gauge.
Once you have verified that there is no interference, hold the throttle wide open and kick the bike over a few times until the gauge reaches maximum compression readings.
Also, either clean your air filter really good or remove it altogether.
Let me know what you come up with.

It was 85lb.
Is that good?

Ok, there is at least one of your problems.
The compression should be close to 200lb.
I'm shocked you were able to start that bike at all.
I would start by removing your top end and taking a look at your cylinder.
Let me know what you find.
SB

Nuts!
I took the head off and the cylinder seemed to have aluminum from the piston stuck to it.....
So, I pulled the cylinder off and the cylinder is scored really deep.
No wonder this thing was running so bad.
How can I tell if my crank is any good?
Where should I send my cylinder to have it sleaved?
Please guys, give me a hand!

For a quick test you can grab the small end of the rod (piston end) and attempt to pull it up and down (Don't allow the crank to rotate).
If there is ANY play at all it needs to be rebuilt.
If you have a test indicator (Very accurate) the vertical or radial play should be .0004"-.0009" The service limit .001".
For a quick test on side play, get a tape measure and wiggle the small end of the rod (piston end).
When they are new or just rebuilt they should be 1/32" or less.
When they get a tad over 1/16" they are at the end of their life.
A more accurate way to measure them is to put a feeler gauge in between the big end of the rod and the crank half.
It does not matter which half you measure.
It should measure .02"-.03".
Once it gets to .04" it is junk.
We can get your cylinder sleeved, a new piston, rings, wrist pin, wrist pin bearing, complete top and bottom gasket set, as well as seals for about 450.00-500.00 depending on the condition of the cylinder, studs, and if we have to remove the exhaust valve or if you do it.
Let me know if you need any more help.
SB

The crank is bad
I'll call you guys in the morning and get a kit ordered.