KX Guru Racing

Installing a VForce 2 Reed valve in a KX500.

The first thing you notice is that the carb boot just don't work....
So, you need to cut the ears off...
I recommend leaving the ears a little long so you can fine grind them to size.
That's better..
After cutting the ears, the next thing I noticed is the difference between the carb opening and the reed opening.
Marked in yellow you can see the huge difference.
My first instinct was to dremel out the difference.
But you don't want to do this as you will lower the port velocity.
I'll cover more of that in a bit.

Note how the reed pedal clamp is slotted?

Here is what the boot looks like after it has been ground to it's final size:
It's hard to see but the mating surface is very smooth after grinding it on a 80 grit 18" diameter wheel.
The smooth surface is important for mating but also marking.

Ok, so your all ready to install your new set up right?
Not so fast Jack.....
You still need to set the Tension on the reed pedals.
How is this done?
Look carefully at the reed clamp.
Note that they are slotted. According to Moto Tassinari the Low tension setting is for low to mid range power and the hi tension setting is for High end power.
Here is a pic demonstrating the high tension vs. low tension settings.
However, after dyno testing stock and modified engines, then running the results on the streets I have found that nothing beats all around torque and HP when the petals are set in the low tension setting. That's what I run on all my bikes period.
Will the petals wear out quicker? I'm sure they will but I've never replaced mine
Note that there is a .004" gap when you set the reed clamp closest the carburetor making it harder to open the reed pedals.
When you set the reed clamp further from the carburetor there is a .050" gap allowing the reed pedals to open easier.
So just for the record:
Reed clamp closer to the carburetor = High tension setting
Reed clamp farther from the carburetor = Low tension setting

This is my story and I'm sticking to it for now

Sandblaster wrote: Simply bolt it on with some Yamagoo (Yamabond) and call it good.

Is it necessary to use the Yamabond or will one the gaskets I have work? I believe I have enough gaskets from the spacer and new reeds I purchased.

Christopher

I hate air leaks.... So I'd use Yamabond just to be safe...
And you don't need a bunch... Just a dab will do ya..

Use a small thin coat on both sides of the gaskets and the spacer... (If your using a spacer)...

Call me Serious Sam, I tend to want the exact details, mostly to a fault.

Lol... I use to play that game

Now one last thing...

I highly recommend this last step...
I like to remove all the bolts one at a time and then put them back in using some thread locker...
Yes, the plastic still needs some retaining compound of some sort to keep the bolts from coming out and running through your engine

And yes, you can still remove the bolts at a later time with no issues