KX Guru Racing

Well I'm going to try to get some good video to take my shed to the rest of the world and outside too, when it's rideable. Hopefully make it a close second. I'm going to get a couple of days that I can work with the bike then I'll not get to it for a bit again.

My youngest boy was having float valve problems in his buggy, so we got that into the shed and I tried a thing I had seen on a forum, pulled the carb out, float bowl off, stuck a cotton bud with metal polish on it up the seat and spun it with a drill. Gleaming in minutes. Seat all sealed. Son happy.
Repeated process on KLX, fuel still running past. So I took the one way valve off. Leak stopped. I screwed up the pressure on the FPR to 6psi with no leaks, so I set it back to 3 and got on with making a new pitot tube. A guy on another site says the place to sample the pressure is a pitot tube in the turbo outlet. So I'm going to try that. I was thinking about the last run I did through the gears. I think a better or quicker reacting pressure signal would be an advantage.
Pitot tube started but to be completed tomorow.

That's a cool tip on the float valve.
I've done similar things using a pipe cleaner
But I like the cotton idea.

I think your getting close on your issues...

Made a pitot tube.

It points up the tube coming from the turbo.

Cleaned up the welds and gave it a lick of paint too.

So another go at getting it to run. No dice, very lean. Put in a 55 slow jet, tried again. It's starting really well now. Picking up right away. But lean with throttle I think I started with the 175 main in. To make a big difference, as it was off the scale lean as the pressure got up, I drilled out a jet to 200. Still not rich enough. So I had a 210 surely that would be enough??? Nope, more of the same. Tits, well I'm going to get some more gauges on the go tomoro, see if I can shed some more light on this. See if that pitot tube is doing its stuff.
The float valve seems to be holding up to the pressure well now, so a positive in among all the frustration. I fed the FPR from the pitot tube too so it was putting a bit of fuel pressure there too.
Oh well, no nearer really.

Hmmm... You may want to consider a richer needle as well since that primarily controls from 1/4 to 3/4 throttle position

Yeh a different needle taper would richen it with more throttle.
I kinda suspect there is a pressure difference problem. I think that because the 210 jet, I thought would make a difference, it did not make the difference I suspected.
If I get a couple more gauges and check the pressure in the plenum and the pitot tube and compare that with the pressure in the original pitot tube pressure, hoping that tells me something. Also one of my ideas from earlier was to use the same pressure reference as the wastegate the one taken off the compressor housing, that might be the direction to take.
I think I should have got nearer with that jet changes, but what I need would be a smaller needle so I can modify the one I have. If it comes to that.

Had a test with a slash cut pitot tube. The pressure signal was more responsive but it did not make the difference I had hoped for in the fueling, it was richer and nearer the ideal values. So I took the needle out and there was another 4 positions richer, so I put it to the lowest clip position. It was richer for even more of the Rev range but would suddenly go lean as the revs rose, or if the throttle was opened quickly from any revs.
So I have looked at the needle it's a EMR so I'm thinking to order a GMR in the morning. One with a more aggressive taper.
I'm off to work again so will surely be able to get a needle sourced before I get back in a couple of weeks.

Yep... think your on the right track...
It's too bad we have to work.
I would much rather play with my toys

http://www.factorypro.com/tech/tech_tun ... s,Pat.html
This makes me doubt the different needle plan.

I've been over that article more then once.
I guess we will see...