KX Guru Racing

I am not dismissing this but I would like to try to fix this without building a box around it, doing that would be time consuming and make jetting changes a real pain. But as I say, it may come to that. However the amount of people who have got this kind of thing to work without a box leads me to think it can be done without.
A member from thumpertalk has suggested raising the fuel level in the float bowl, this would have an effect on the whole fueling process of the carb, which I feel is the sort of answer that I need.
It's really early days here too, I've only had a couple of attempts at starting the bike, it's not really ready to run, it needs the cooling system to be fitted along with other things.
I am sure I will find the solution, it might even be a box round the carb, I appreciate all input.

No worries... If it can be done without the box I'm sure you will figure it out..

Idle hands just now. Played around with a "turbo calculator" I found online.

http://www.not2fast.com/turbo/glossary/turbo_calc.shtml

It does not claim to be definitive but playing around with the user input-able values is quite interesting. Setting values to 0 takes them out of the calculation, for example, the intercooler efficiency and pressure drop, if set to 0, is like there being no intercooler.
If you set the turbo efficiencies to 0 it also becomes a N/A calculator. I tried this and got a very close value to the original KLX hp value, I think it was at 85% volumetric efficiency, I then used that VE as a base to the rest of the calculations.

One of the most interesting aspects for me was to mess around with the cc/min of the water injection. If you spray in enough water the hp and torque goes up and up. I assume that is because you can keep plenty of ignition advance?

Here is one I played with just now. That's a lot of water meth mix going in there. I would need to strap a Jerry can to my back if I went to town at that spray rate fantasy numbers but a fun exercise while away at work

It will be interesting to see how accurate the numbers end up being.

Something else that may interest you.
I recently started playing around with Karts.
They have a fuel pump
They also use a return line with a jet in them to keep them from loosing to much fuel back to the tank too fast... hhhhmmmmmmm....

I think the numbers there are over the horizon and far away but it's what it is, just a exercise, I did have the numbers at about 95hp with some "achiveable" (I thought) numbers. Then I added in some more "fun" numbers and got that.

Yeh fuel pumps on carts? I saw you were doing a cr500 cart engine, also saw your two cart videos on YouTube, nice cart. The jet will act like a regulator. Remember the discussion on oil pressure when I was making my uprated oil pump, you asked if the increased flow would increase pressure. Well this would be a way of getting pressure, just use an orifice. Enough flow, small enough orifice, there will be pressure. Great idea, simple, weighing grammes, ideal. No rising rate to cope with boost. Ideal for that application though.
I would like a cart like that.

Unfortunately I have not drove it yet.
I'm not sure I can even fit in it
But you can see the look on Jason's face after he test drives it... I think I want one too

Well got a little time to mess around with the bike. Sorted the water/meth injection nozzle and filled the tank with water only. The reason for putting water only is I need to do some tests without the methanol mixed in, the methanol alters the AFR to make it look rich when it might not be. I need to determine how much it is going to alter it by.

I also wired up the thermocouples to monitor EGT and air temp out of turbo and air temp into engine, it's temporary, I don't think I will use this beyond the testing time.

So I raised the float level and because of the problem I had the last time I tried starting the bike of fuel running through the engine, caused by (I think) the vac signal from the intake pulling the float valve off its seat, the float bowl is linked to the intake and receives the vac signal from the intake as well as the pressure it needs to over come boost when the turbo is blowing. My solution to this is to fit a small nylon one-way valve in the line so the vac signal is isolated from the carb float bowl.

So all that done, I thought I would try a start up. Ok after a few goes it started and ran but I had forgotten the lambda sensor was not hooked up and the door was off the plenum. So I sorted that and had a go again. Nothing. I messed about for ages, it was just doing the same as before, if it started at all it would just be a few revolutions then cut. I did get it to go a little longer after a bit, I could see the boost up to about 7psi maybe at 5000rpm perhaps not even that (a lot of things to look at when it was starting and stopping so quickly) so what I'm thinking is the boost is overcoming the fuel, pushing the fuel away and stopping the engine. There is a lot of things to test yet so I'm not going to get too excited about it just yet.
So I had another job to do, the radiators need to go on, they probably should have been on already, when I went to put all that stuff on the exhaust thermocouple fouled a water hoze, so off came the turbo and exhaust manifold and bung cut off and hole plugged and bung in appropriate place now.

So got all that sorted and when I put the turbo back on I left the hoze off from the turbo to the plenum. So no boost can be built just now. Tried starting and it started and ran not too bad. But the AFR is about 15-16 that's too lean. It was also time to call it a day.
Is that near enough that the air screw could correct it?
Or would it need a bigger pilot jet/slow jet?
I don't have a bigger jet but I have another smaller jet and some drills.
More soon.

That is a tight squeeze......
My money says you need a larger jet but I guess we will see

I think you will be right there.