KX Guru Racing

Milling machine?
Oh man... I want one too.....
OEM gaskets?
Great... I use those or Cometic.
On your valve issue there is a company in Bend Oregon USA that do a lot of head work and they may have some info.
http://www.mtechmotorcycles.com/
M-Tech
I have people buy heads from me all over the world and they want them sent to M-Tech so they must be doing something right.
Phone: 541-388-5005
Email: Matt@MtechMotorcycles.com
Hours: Monday through Friday 9AM to 5PM
M-Tech Motorcycles
20748 Carmen Loop #140
Bend, OR 97702
To bad you weren't so far away, I could make those cases look beautiful again
Where would the world be without Vicegrips?
On your clutch hub, don't be surprised if you find it on all of them..
I just checked a few I have parted out and they all have the same casting flaw... At least that's what I'm calling it.
Maintenance is EVERYTHING!!!

Better luck with the 2nd engine, head in good condition, valve clearances all within spec, at the better end of the scale too. Got the head off and then progress was stalled by the flywheel being stuck on. But I have enough parts around now to rebuild so Iv found the right puller and ordered one.

Gee, I wish I was closer too. There has to be rebuild shops in the UK, it's just a case of funding them.

Those cam bearing journals look great.
Looks like you found a good engine there.
Yes, the UK has some master engine builders.
Unfortunately I don't know any

This is the 2nd strip down's strainer, not good really, the 1st engine was clean on this strainer and then the square one between the cases was the one full of crap on the other post.

This is sealant no metal evident.

I pulled the engine out of the turbo bike, it looked really clean, this is looking down the intake.

I gave it a clean up on the outside then pulled the cam cover and checked the valves, I was quite surprised when the clearances were a litte over spec so they must have been done recently. Then I took off the cam retainer, hmmm, not so good, cam journals look a bit beat up.

The journals on the exhaust cam looks scored and black, it could be some sealant got into the cam journal? It's not easy to know. The intake was ok, journals in good condition.
This is the little strainer!!!!!!!!!! Oh no!

It's so full of shit the pump has sucked it flat.

Well that's a lot of crap, again it just looks like sealant and perhaps some plastic metal stuff that looked like it had been chased out of a thread by a bolt. Gee, this is the engine I had running, the oil pressure was really good too, well when cold anyway, the pump would have been struggling to suck the thicker oil as well so it probably would have been ok when hot? Right?
I think with what I've seen so far the 2nd engine should be my focus.
I still need to split that engine though. What horrors await? It's old engines when all is said and done. That will be '93 or '94 bikes so they have 20 years of this that and the next, what stories could they tell. Anyway hopefully they will be bragging to their buddy's about huge Dyno numbers before the year is out.

I made a bung the other day and threaded it, it's for the fuel return to the tank, the welding of it I thought I would leave to someone else. Good job I did, the lad did a fine job on it.

Looks the job!

It's TIG welded, look how the paint around it is hardly even scorched! If I had tried it I was going to oxyacetylene weld it, Iv done that but not for 20 years, there's no way it would have been as neat as that.

That's probably not the neatest welding of the whole job but it shows how little heat spread there was.
So that's ready to go.

Today

It's looking less like a bike now than it has for a while. I think now it's this far stripped I'll take the frame off the forks and give it a lick of paint. You can see the turquoise original paint has been painted over with black. The tank rear mudguard and scoops will stay green the side panels white, I was thinking a white front mudgaurd might look ok? The frame black looked ok so that could just stay black.

White front mudgaurd might be too much with the White fork guards

On the turbo bike engine it does appear that oiling to the top end was lost.
The big question is was it the black sealant, low oil level, or worn out pump...
Do you have specs for the oil pump clearances?
I'd hate to see you take all this time and expense to junk your build.
Also, I have seen guys fix the cam journals by using a ball mill and start by removing about .005" from the bottom of the journals.
They go as deep as required until cleanup is achieved.
Of course there is a practical limit to the depth you can go but most clean up between .005-.010" from what I have been told.
Then they mill the top of the head the same amount that they removed from the bottom of the journal.
They repeat this process on the cam clamp journals and the mating face.
Since your getting a new mill it might be worth looking into.

I'd like to see some huge dyno numbers as well

If the welds don't leak it doesn't matter how they look as long as you don't see them when the bike is assembled

I don't think it will matter what paint, plastic, or graphics scheme you decide on, because the bike has to be going slow to see it... What is the speed limit where you live?

I took the oil pump off and the pump looks ok. I see what you mean with the milling of the head, I hadn't thought of that the journal is 23mm I would imagine you would get a reamer of that size. Yes indeed there would be other ways to fix it, boring it out and putting a brass or bronze shell in had been going through my mind and there is an Australian guy who posts on ADVrider forum that is throwing around ideas for a roller bearing set up. If you have the time or the cash anything would be possible.
I am trying to figure out a oil pump upgrade, I've never given up on that idea, i have had many different ideas. I will write up a post on that soon, I think I can see how it might be done now.
Speed limit? Hmm, better not to speak of these things.

On the journals, not a reamer but a ball end mill like this



You will need a ball end mill the same diameter as a stock bearing journal.
If it's not a stock ball end mill size you can have one custom ground to the size you need.
Set the head in the mill upright.
Then center the ball end mill in the center of the bearing journal but off to one side.
Then plunge straight down say .005"
The traverse from left to right across all the journals.
Easy.... if you have your own mill