Do you mind sharing what happened with the accident?
If not, no worries..
I know you have a dangerous job.
Crofter985'S KLX650C supermoto build
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Sandblaster
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Re: Crofter985'S KLX650C supermoto build
If bikes are for kids I'll never grow up.
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Crofter985
- Posts: 240
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Re: Crofter985'S KLX650C supermoto build
Well it was a guide pin for the net that broke, the net pushed him into the side of the boat. Fractured his skull. He's got a long road to recovery before him.
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Crofter985
- Posts: 240
- Joined: Mon Nov 10, 2014 6:47 pm
- Location: Shetland Islands, UK
Re: Crofter985'S KLX650C supermoto build
Now I need to join the carb to the plenum. The ideal plan is to extend the tube coming out of the plenum. Then all that needed is a short length of hose in between the two, less chance of the hose blowing off.
So that just fits on the carb now.
So the carb is in a good place, it's a compromise though (as most things usually are) it's not a straight shot to the inlet valves, that's the big negative but on positives it should seal well only one bit of hose and clips, instead of two.
So that's another thing done.
So that just fits on the carb now.
So the carb is in a good place, it's a compromise though (as most things usually are) it's not a straight shot to the inlet valves, that's the big negative but on positives it should seal well only one bit of hose and clips, instead of two.
So that's another thing done.
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Sandblaster
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Re: Crofter985'S KLX650C supermoto build
Please wish him a speedy recovery...Crofter985 wrote:Well it was a guide pin for the net that broke, the net pushed him into the side of the boat. Fractured his skull. He's got a long road to recovery before him.
If bikes are for kids I'll never grow up.
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Sandblaster
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Re: Crofter985'S KLX650C supermoto build
That has been a huge job.Crofter985 wrote:Now I need to join the carb to the plenum. The ideal plan is to extend the tube coming out of the plenum. Then all that needed is a short length of hose in between the two, less chance of the hose blowing off.
So that just fits on the carb now.
So the carb is in a good place, it's a compromise though (as most things usually are) it's not a straight shot to the inlet valves, that's the big negative but on positives it should seal well only one bit of hose and clips, instead of two.
So that's another thing done.
Few guys would hang with it this long.
Congrats!!!
Should be a really cool bike when it's done.
Looking forward to the dyno improvements
If bikes are for kids I'll never grow up.
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Crofter985
- Posts: 240
- Joined: Mon Nov 10, 2014 6:47 pm
- Location: Shetland Islands, UK
Re: Crofter985'S KLX650C supermoto build
I sure will Mike.Sandblaster wrote:Please wish him a speedy recovery...Crofter985 wrote:Well it was a guide pin for the net that broke, the net pushed him into the side of the boat. Fractured his skull. He's got a long road to recovery before him.
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Crofter985
- Posts: 240
- Joined: Mon Nov 10, 2014 6:47 pm
- Location: Shetland Islands, UK
Re: Crofter985'S KLX650C supermoto build
I originally planned to put the W/M pump here.
It was the only place I could get the battery and the pump inside the rails of the frame. The pump was only just below the level of the bottom of the water tank, these pumps can't suck, although normally if a pump is sucking then the momentum and surface tension of the liquid keeps the pump sucking and that was what I was thinking when I settled on that idea. This pump won't run all the time though, only when the boost gets to a user set level. So this kinda made me re think the pump placement.
Well it couldn't be any lower on the bike now really. I'm hoping that it will be pretty dificult for an air bubble to go there. I'll still put the battery in the same place and the space the pump took before will do for the electrics.
Which were going to go under the seat, so more space for them.
You can see it's not out that far from the frame and it will be behind my leg, I tried putting the seat on and it works out like that.
The mounting itself is very simple just holes drilled into it and Allen bolts through. I folded the mounting bracket with four folds to clear the shock a bit more. I put that folder I made in the press to fold it, it's 5mm alloy and it took 11tonnes on the manometer to get the folds, it was a lot more than I thought I would need.
That's a bit of a fuzzy shot but the shock is well hemmed in now, I could have left the old one in no one would have known. I forgot to mention before but it's adjustable for compression and rebound damping.
That's the compression adjuster there and the rebound is at the bottom. I took this pic to show where the wiring harness will route through. Oh and another thing, I have not put any outlet into the W/M tank, I was waiting to get to this stage to do so, I also intend to make some kind of bubble trap so that only liquid and no air gets to that pump. If mentioned this before but this motor is going to be a W/M junkie when on boost. It won't like it one bit if it doesn't have any.
So again it's a bit more progress. But always a few things more to go too.
It was the only place I could get the battery and the pump inside the rails of the frame. The pump was only just below the level of the bottom of the water tank, these pumps can't suck, although normally if a pump is sucking then the momentum and surface tension of the liquid keeps the pump sucking and that was what I was thinking when I settled on that idea. This pump won't run all the time though, only when the boost gets to a user set level. So this kinda made me re think the pump placement.
Well it couldn't be any lower on the bike now really. I'm hoping that it will be pretty dificult for an air bubble to go there. I'll still put the battery in the same place and the space the pump took before will do for the electrics.
Which were going to go under the seat, so more space for them.
You can see it's not out that far from the frame and it will be behind my leg, I tried putting the seat on and it works out like that.
The mounting itself is very simple just holes drilled into it and Allen bolts through. I folded the mounting bracket with four folds to clear the shock a bit more. I put that folder I made in the press to fold it, it's 5mm alloy and it took 11tonnes on the manometer to get the folds, it was a lot more than I thought I would need.
That's a bit of a fuzzy shot but the shock is well hemmed in now, I could have left the old one in no one would have known. I forgot to mention before but it's adjustable for compression and rebound damping.
That's the compression adjuster there and the rebound is at the bottom. I took this pic to show where the wiring harness will route through. Oh and another thing, I have not put any outlet into the W/M tank, I was waiting to get to this stage to do so, I also intend to make some kind of bubble trap so that only liquid and no air gets to that pump. If mentioned this before but this motor is going to be a W/M junkie when on boost. It won't like it one bit if it doesn't have any.
So again it's a bit more progress. But always a few things more to go too.
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Crofter985
- Posts: 240
- Joined: Mon Nov 10, 2014 6:47 pm
- Location: Shetland Islands, UK
Re: Crofter985'S KLX650C supermoto build
i had a look at my CDI unit the other day, I have mentioned it before, I got it months ago but I did not have a laptop to run it with. It's a programmable unit.
The CDI has a serial connector on it and it connects to the laptop using a rs232 serial to usb converter. I had a bit of a head scratch to get the laptop to talk to the CDI but once I had selected the correct com port it went fine.
The CDI comes with a disc with the programming software on it and a file you load into it with the appropriate ignition information for your bike, when I was buying this I asked if they made one which could be boost referenced, which it is, the MAP (manifold air pressure) sensor is on the ground next to the CDI. It looks to be a well designed thing, the map sensor runs on an auxiliary input channel and could be other sensors like a TPS, I guess it depends on your setup and as long as it's a 0-5v sensor.
So with the file loaded and the ignition tab selected you get a choice of looking at it like this......
It presents the ignition map as a XL type document with each of the rpm v MAP ignition values or nodes I think they are called individually selectable, then a up and down arrow comes up at the side and you can advance or retard the ignition by a degree at a time.
Then you can select the ignition map to be displayed as a 3D map.......
There is an adjustable rev limiter as well with a soft rev limiter that you can also set, the base setting is 9500rpm for the soft limit and 10000 for the total rev limit. I think that's too high, I put it to 9000soft and 9500total but I might even reduce it further, at 10,000rpm would it not just be shrapnel by then? 8,500 might be enough for a total limit? What does anyone think about that?
Anyway it seems to be ideal hope it can do its stuff.
The CDI has a serial connector on it and it connects to the laptop using a rs232 serial to usb converter. I had a bit of a head scratch to get the laptop to talk to the CDI but once I had selected the correct com port it went fine.
The CDI comes with a disc with the programming software on it and a file you load into it with the appropriate ignition information for your bike, when I was buying this I asked if they made one which could be boost referenced, which it is, the MAP (manifold air pressure) sensor is on the ground next to the CDI. It looks to be a well designed thing, the map sensor runs on an auxiliary input channel and could be other sensors like a TPS, I guess it depends on your setup and as long as it's a 0-5v sensor.
So with the file loaded and the ignition tab selected you get a choice of looking at it like this......
It presents the ignition map as a XL type document with each of the rpm v MAP ignition values or nodes I think they are called individually selectable, then a up and down arrow comes up at the side and you can advance or retard the ignition by a degree at a time.
Then you can select the ignition map to be displayed as a 3D map.......
There is an adjustable rev limiter as well with a soft rev limiter that you can also set, the base setting is 9500rpm for the soft limit and 10000 for the total rev limit. I think that's too high, I put it to 9000soft and 9500total but I might even reduce it further, at 10,000rpm would it not just be shrapnel by then? 8,500 might be enough for a total limit? What does anyone think about that?
Anyway it seems to be ideal hope it can do its stuff.
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Sandblaster
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Re: Crofter985'S KLX650C supermoto build
I'm on information overload 
I'm trying to figure a safe rev limit.
If your running the Wossner rod it can safely run up more RPM's then the stocker.
Max Power 39.39 hp @ 6500 rpm
Bore x Stroke 100 x 83mm
So, 6500 is where max power is at, but of course, you can make power after that just decreasingly so.
7500 is where the stock rev limit is at.
Therefore 7500 is safe.
Are you going to balance your crank/piston assembly?
If so, what balance factor are you going to use?
A well balanced motor can safely rev higher.-
With the Wossner rod I would think that you could easily and safely run 8500-9000 rpm
By contrast my KX500 has a 86mm stroke and runs at 8500 rpm stock.
With some port work and balancing they will wick up to 10,500+ rpm.
I'm not saying it's safe, just that it will
Since you have a dyno and the programmable CDI why not start off low and see how it sounds and feels?
If the power is smoothly increasing right up to the rev limit and it feels good then bump it up.
Just taking a wild guess here, I bet you will end up in the 9500 to 10,000 rpm range.
Safely? I guess we will see
Oh... and you may have to increase the spring rate on those valves to keep them from floating at those RPM's
More later after I absorb all this...
I'm trying to figure a safe rev limit.
If your running the Wossner rod it can safely run up more RPM's then the stocker.
Max Power 39.39 hp @ 6500 rpm
Bore x Stroke 100 x 83mm
So, 6500 is where max power is at, but of course, you can make power after that just decreasingly so.
7500 is where the stock rev limit is at.
Therefore 7500 is safe.
Are you going to balance your crank/piston assembly?
If so, what balance factor are you going to use?
A well balanced motor can safely rev higher.-
With the Wossner rod I would think that you could easily and safely run 8500-9000 rpm
By contrast my KX500 has a 86mm stroke and runs at 8500 rpm stock.
With some port work and balancing they will wick up to 10,500+ rpm.
I'm not saying it's safe, just that it will
Since you have a dyno and the programmable CDI why not start off low and see how it sounds and feels?
If the power is smoothly increasing right up to the rev limit and it feels good then bump it up.
Just taking a wild guess here, I bet you will end up in the 9500 to 10,000 rpm range.
Safely? I guess we will see
Oh... and you may have to increase the spring rate on those valves to keep them from floating at those RPM's
More later after I absorb all this...
If bikes are for kids I'll never grow up.
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Crofter985
- Posts: 240
- Joined: Mon Nov 10, 2014 6:47 pm
- Location: Shetland Islands, UK
Re: Crofter985'S KLX650C supermoto build
I haven't thought about balancing the crank,rod,piston assembly, and I don't know what a balance factor is but I'm going to google it now.
It's rpms that kills rods and cranks. But Mr Kawasaki probably builds in a factor of safety, with running that big turbo,the turbo is likly to push the engine to be able to breathe at higher revs so the rev limiter is probably going to come in handy.
I should contact webcams, they sell uprated springs.
Hmmmmmm....
It's rpms that kills rods and cranks. But Mr Kawasaki probably builds in a factor of safety, with running that big turbo,the turbo is likly to push the engine to be able to breathe at higher revs so the rev limiter is probably going to come in handy.
I should contact webcams, they sell uprated springs.
Hmmmmmm....