KX500 BOTTOM END ASSEMBLY

[Sandblaster]

Stainless Steel bolts require Never Seize if you want to remove them at a later date

2000 KX500 BOTTOM END ASSEMBLY 3.JPG (35.18 KiB) Viewed 13416 times

Looks like a Easy Bake Oven but those aren't cookies baking

2000 KX500 BOTTOM END ASSEMBLY 4.JPG (43.04 KiB) Viewed 13416 times

Popped the crank out of the freezer and into the right case... clunk...

2000 KX500 BOTTOM END ASSEMBLY 5.JPG (46.73 KiB) Viewed 13416 times

[Sandblaster]

Hurry up and get that other side on before the crank warms up...

2000 KX500 BOTTOM END ASSEMBLY 6.JPG (27.56 KiB) Viewed 13416 times

Done.... For now

[Sandblaster]

Wossner P2039 fits kx500 85-04

20140419_171619.jpg (197.63 KiB) Viewed 13415 times

[queen of spades]

1) What prevents you from installing seals from the outside of the case? Do you ave a pic of the case before you put the seal in?

2) What is that oven, where did you get it and (very roughly) what do they run? I was thinking of finding an old used kitchen oven on CL.

[queen of spades]

Ok I feel a LOT better seeing the 500 and 125 parts diagrams.. thought I was gonna have to split the cases after putting them together last night.

KX500


KX125

[Sandblaster]

Nah, your good...
I wish they did that with the KX500 seals but they must have thought that they wouldn't hold up well enough.
Then again it might be possible to machine some reliefs in the outside of the cases and mount some seals.... if there is enough room...
Then again, once you do seals they seem to last a while.
At least mine do...

[Kawboy]

What temp. do you set your oven to ? I don't want to ruin my seals.

[Sandblaster]

We go 250 degrees F if the seals are internal such as on the kx500.
We go 275 degrees F if the seals are external and installed after the case halves are assembled.

[81cr450]

Great pointers on the snap rings.

Like to add never exceed 350* f on aluminum , that's the temp it starts to anneal.

[Sandblaster]

That is good to know.
I'll make a note of that in our Motorrad Super build

I am adding the following info to this thread due to some questions from another member.
I was asked about the heat freeze method and when to put the case sealer on.


It all depends on how fast you are.
So the crank is in a plastic bag in the freezer over night and is as cold as it can get.
Preheat the oven to 250 degrees.
The safe way is to do one side at a time.
Do the clutch side first.
Put the right case half in the oven with no sealer and get it hot, usually takes about 15-20 minutes to reach 250 degrees depending on how good your oven is.
When it has reached 250 degres F, immediately pull the crank from the freezer and drop it in.
Be sure not to put the crank in backwards.
I have seen it happen more then once
Then, you can preoil and install your transmission, shift drum, and forks.
Take that assembly and put it in a plastic bag and stick it back into the freezer and chill it again over night.
The next day, preheat the oven to 250 degrees.
Once it has reached temp, put the left engine case in the oven for again about 15-20 minutes.
When you think it's about 5 minutes before the left case comes out of the oven, pull the right case, crank, and trans from the freezer and then I put the sealant on the right case half.
As the right crank half is warming up, you may have to use a rag to wipe the excess moisture off the case mating surface before you put the sealant on.
Be sure that all the surface area is coated, not dripping but fully covered.
It should take all of your 5 minutes...
Then I pull the left case from the oven and put the case halves together.
If you have to use a little persuasion to get the case halves together, it's ok to use a little but you don't want to beat it on.
Then I check the crank to case clearance on both sides.
It should be relatively uniform.
Again, you may have to use a little persuasion to move the crank but remember that it doesn't have to be absolutely perfect.

There are faster ways for sure.... but, to me it's worth the wait to not have a problem.
Hope that helps.