Crofter985'S KLX650C supermoto build

[Sandblaster]

I know I know, one thing at a time
I ran a 320 on my Desert KX500 and it was nice... single finger pull even at 100 mph

[Crofter985]

Yeh the standard KLX c is a 290mm disc, so it's not too bad. Decent stopping power as standard, and I've gone from 21" to 17" on the front so the rolling radius is reduced and the leverage increased. All the same I got that 320 sitting there and it will go on, I took a bit of a chance on it being right for my application as it has four mounting bolt holes like the KLX does but of course when it arrived it was wrong. It's not such a big deal though I saw some 12mm plate in the aluminium stockists in town. I'll get a square of that and turn an adaptor out of it. I think the new disc could do with being spaced off a bit as the brembo caliper off a ktm 640 won't go on the disc that's there as it fouls the spokes. It's never easy, eh?
Hey mike! Do you have a KLX c shock? I was looking for the length between bolt centres and the width of the inside of the jaw on the lower mount. I'm looking at a piggyback reservoir shock on fleabay off another bike. If it was near enough I will try it. (More modifications on the horizon)
Mark

[Sandblaster]

Unfortunately I sold them all.
I do know that a lot of guys swap out the KLX650C for the KLC650R shock.
I don't know what the differences are as I never recorded the measurements of the C model.
I do have measurements for the R model:
KYB - Spring thickness: 12.3MM OD - Spring Diameter: 88.5MM - Spring length as mounted: 240MM - Upper mount tab thickness: 26.8MM - Upper mount tab hole ID: 10MM - Lower Mount Internal Width: 22.7MM - Lower mount hole ID: 10MM - Eye to Eye: 432MM
Hope this helps..

[Crofter985]

Thanks that's what I need, yeh I got the "c" length off adv rider forum that other measurements are the same. At least I think. you da man, mike

[Crofter985]

Here's a pic I meant to put up a while ago too was of the finished oil feed adaptor for the turbo lubrication. I posted a pic ages ago of it too long, well I shortened it and it looked fine but there was no room to tighten it properly so I found a bolt and nut of 10x1.25mm thread and put bolt in the top and spun down the nut, a bit of work with the cutting blade on the grinder and finished up with a file and a 14mm across the flats hex was the result. Then I replaced all the m5 set screws on the compressor housing with stainless Allen set screws and stainless washers.

This next pic is victory and defeat all in one go! I made up a little platform for the W/M pump to sit on made up 4 alloy threaded bosses with a m5 thread to weld in. 5mm is the size of the holes on the rubber mounts of the pump, what I decided to do was to use m6 stainless Allen bolts so there was a decent size head on them and shave them down to 5mm then put a m5 thread on them. All that is easy to write but it took a while to complete, all for a little pump. It was going ok, I tacked the bosses on to the plate then took the pump off it and stuck it all together. Then I test fitted it in the subframe and tacked it took pump off and put the bolts back in the holes to stop splatter going in the holes. Then when I was backing the bolts out one of them started picking up, wouldn't go back in, then snap, sh!t, what could I do? I got the power file out and sanded the son of a beach flat. Three will surely hold it and after all, I'm not going to the moon or anything. Right?

[Sandblaster]

Sorry buddy but that is hilarious! Not what happened, just how you explained it.
Been there and done that... Yeah, 3 will no doubt hold even if you were going to the moon
Thanks for posting this build.
You never know where it will lead.

[Crofter985]

Without a bit of failure, who could appreciate success?
No problem mike.

[Sandblaster]

No wonder I'm so appreciative.....

I'm the king of Epic Failures

[Sandblaster]

This is from 81cr450 over at KXrider.com

If you can't find a rod , keep the tubine housing small, so the boost comes on strong down low/ all in quick. It's not necessarily the extra power from the boost that would ruin parts , as much as more rpm causes parts to disintegrate.

BTW , what's the turbo of off. Sorry if it's been covered. Have you checked out the squirrel calculator. Might help see your projected rpm.

[Crofter985]

This is from 81cr450 over at KXrider.com

If you can't find a rod , keep the tubine housing small, so the boost comes on strong down low/ all in quick. It's not necessarily the extra power from the boost that would ruin parts , as much as more rpm causes parts to disintegrate.

BTW , what's the turbo of off. Sorry if it's been covered. Have you checked out the squirrel calculator. Might help see your projected rpm.

Hi,
A German dude commented on my copy of this thread on supermotojunkie, he says a hot rods, rod off a 84 xr600, I think without checking, will fit but is 1.5mm longer which you can take up by a spacer under the block. I also lurk a bit at adv rider and an interesting link was posted there of a Japanese blog page http://topend.exblog.jp/15164668/ if you put this into google translate or just look at the pics in a ordinary browser, the blog seems to be from a engine builders website, lots of shiney things there and the guy mentions Carrillo and on that link above look at the rod sticking out of the KLX cases, it looks a bit like a Carrillo! I must do a little asking around about that!
The turbo is a new unit that was originally destined for a fiat ducato 2.8l diesel van, I have saved it from a possibly quite boring life there and it will now bask in superstardom on the side of a KLX ! I 100% get what you say about the turbine size and agree too. Too big and I have to live in high revs to make it boost. I would have tried that squirrel calculator but the page seems to be down. The turbo is a GT1752 garrett 52 being the turbine size, I hope, it's the right size but if it's a bit on the big side I do have a GT1549 that is just a little smaller on the compressor and the turbine. Just looking at the turbine and the turbine inlet it looks ok, and it seemed to spin up easy enough in the test runs???? The plenum is not finished so it was just blowing out the turbo exit. One of the reasons I went bigger, the 1549 was going on to begin with was when I got the turbo the inlet of the turbo was tiny. I read in a book on turbo systems that porsche's engineers put big turbos on the 911s because by using bigger turbos the heat buildup (back pressure) was less. Apparently the Porsche was still a aircooled engine so cooling was more of an issue. I think cooling is going to be an issue for me too. I have been thinking about this turbo sizing, my own little theory on the subject (be prepared to be shot down sir!!!) is on the piston that's pushing the whole thing along. Multi cylinder engines seem to need comparatively smaller turbos for a given displacement. That GT1752 is off a 2.8l four cylinder diesel, 2.8 divided by 4 = 700cc. I could very well be talking utter sh!t here, it would not be the first time I've been wrong and it will sure not be the last but isn't this a lovely experiment! So to recap, yeh the rpm will be the crank killer, there's another thing I noticed too though, I can think of two different turbo bike builds I've seen ride videos on you tube and another that was just a build thread on a forum, all those guys were running what I would consider small turbos, all of them reported boosting just a little off idle or at least in the first quarter of their rev range, they were all pleased, should they have been? A turbo that boosts early is a commuter car turbo, it's all done mid way through the third quarter of the revs and getting breathless (also building back pressure and heat), I'm looking for the 911 idea, open throttle, wait, snake up road painting black lines in my wake.
It's not good news for the rod!