Motorrads Jeff Ward engine build series 2

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Okay.. Time to fess up...

I am not the brains behind this entire operation. Nope..
Probably couldn't check my own oil without my Helper in the garage...
Yep, she knows everything, and is quality control..

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Alittle fun with a old piston and a file today (before I have to run off to a family B-day Party)..


Not saying this will work better, or worse... Just cutting to see what one can cut before short circiut..... Playing around if you will Or is it?? evil
I cut the entire skirt off the other side so I can see what is doing what when..
(Im a visual learner)

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dave916:
hi motorrad, well done with the write up
i see ur trying to get the piston skirt as close to the exhaust sub port TDC
my only concern is any extra stress on piston or exhaust bridges due to very little piston skirt below exhauts ports at tdc, probably me over thinking it smiley

really interested in the diffferance in the wisco pistons? they has to be a differance in performance ,anyone tryed the pistons back to back,?
The Newer piston Without the tranfer boost look like it would be cheaper to produce
The older piston similiar to OEM even though the oem has also a cuttaway from the wrist pin towards the front of piston which will shortcut the exhaust subport.
This in theroy should lower crankcase compression at hhigh revs (when KIPS opens} which mean u should also have varible crankcase compression on the Kx

Motorrad:
I agree that your over thinking the extra stress on exhaust bridges. there really isnt that much material being removed.. to effect support. Just enough to effect transfer port shielding... and the location of removal isn't a support area ....

One of our resident Genius members will have to answer your question abour the performance difference between the two pistons... As I don't have a dyno, a datalogger, or experience with them back to back in the same motor build.... (Doldguy, doordie time to chime in here)

It is my understanding that the NEW piston is a improvement, as the short circuit problem is REDUCED... (not eliminated)..

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Okay. here is something im sure is mentioned on the site... BUT I have never run across it, so Ill bring it up... (things you thought would have been payed attention to last build seems to be the theme of this entire thread)

A old base gasket works great for setting this up... as its already squished... and you can take the jug on and off as many times as it takes to get right... Dont want to take out ALL the play... as things still need to be able to move around free once everything warms up and GUNKS UP.....


all pictures are taken with KIPS at FULL OPEN...

First... without shims. (note, this doesn't account for base gasket thickness, so add your gasket thickness to how bad this is, as different gaskets will effect it different)
Note how low the center kips hangs down into port.

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A few well placed and good combination ones of these.. (mine took 1mm worth)

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And.. whala

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Hmm

I was thinking of Raising (over stock) .040 at most..

My only problem is I dont want to cut (deck) this nice Jug. (dont want to have to buy plating again either)

Have considered recess cutting the head... BUT.. somthing about (lets see simple math time... I currently have a .010 step in head, .010 head gasket).. having the head .020 into the hole just doesnt agree with me.. Seems there would be hot spots all around the ouside edges in my mind..

anyone run the head recesed into the Jug with any success?

kaw rider:
yes that the only way to go to save head gasket or o-rings.

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Basic stuff... But deserves to be mentioned... as the most basic stuff is normaly the overlooked stuff...

How many of you MIC your head pin?

Especially once you throw in a thinner gasket, and have head cut!!

Checked mine... ran the numbers... and guess what.... the pin in mine would bottom out .0018 BEFORE the headgasket would... Yep .. that would cause problems..

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Quick trip to the grinder... and all is better...

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Not related to the motor... (been doing other things since Im at a stand still on it till boxs show up in the mail)...

But spent a good bit of time tonight making my Supermoto wheels fit, finaly..

As they are Rad Hex hub wheels off a DRZ400...

Chose these as they were CHEAP here localy off a bike a guy decided to wrap around a tree (caught perfectly in the middle of the bike on the seat... Looked like a banana.).. and the rotor and sprocket adaptors bolt on and off the hubs... so I can take them off and machine as needed...

Had to Mill the rear brake rotor side .115", as it located the rotor out too far..., the sprocket side fit perfectly..

Had to make all my own spacers.. (Rad offers them for sale, but Im cheap, and own a lathe)

Front went in perfectly... using OEM wheel spacers plus a little shim..

Also mounted my new speedo I bought from Sintax... (thank you Sintax).. Had to machine it to clear the Steering damper... no biggie..

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Picture of theRear brake rotor adaptor that needs to be machined to make the DRZ stuff fit.. Very simple.. I expected more work to make these wheels fit than it took..

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Also got my Extra flywheel from ZAR today (thank you sir)... and proceeded to put it on a diet...

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Another goodie today also..

Got this idea from BDI. (thank you BDI, We miss you around here!).. (I always used to do it with solder, but like this idea)

He used a old spark plug to make this..

But I dug around in one of my piles of Junk.. and came up with a Old screw in plug hole compression release (for those old bikes that had 2 spark plugs)..

And... out of shear luck, the ID of the compression release was a snug fit for my dial indicator!..

Perfect.

drill and tap for set screw.. and done!..

Now I can check my squish 2 ways (the BDI way, and the solder way)

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DoldGuy:

Okay I give, how are you checking your squish with that setup? I know it's late here but I don't see it.
DoldGuy

Motorrad:

Only thing I will do differant from BDI.. is I will place head on piston FIRST, zero gage (write down the measurement) then install piston, and head, then measure again.. the differance is your squish..

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