Motorrads Jeff Ward engine build series 2

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Okay kids in bed... The spacer gained me .028" more clearance between the upper reed stop and reed peddle... vs when I put it in without the spacer... (measured very crudly.. Probly is actually more)

Going to start tampering with KIPS preload, and shim stacks wink

Id Like to find a flywheel I can chuck in the lathe and put on a diet...

and

As soon as I get my head and case back from Larry... I can start making alot of little chunks... turn into one big chunk...

My crank should be here tues ... (if my crank guy sent it out, or is waiting to ship it back with my other cranks he has (bultaco))..

Got some good news from larry today..

Words cant describe how impressed I am with this mans work... I cant recommend him enough...
Especially being willing to work with Special circumstances like mine with the strange desert tank that leaves VERY LITTLE ROOM

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One more

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2-Stroke Tom:
As far as the V force reed pictures that Motorrad posted, I have to say I'm not to thrilled to put these on my bike just yet. I've read stories about what a tight fit they are and that people even sand them so they fit better, and now what I've seen here really makes me even more hesitant. I can't imagine what those V force reed stops would look like after a 90 mile Hare and Hound with temps well over 100. I wonder if there was a reason why the Team Green desert bikes (at least the 2004s) had stock reeds that they would just replace frequently. The 1/8" spacer seems like a great idea if it works, as I don't want to put one of the thick reed spacers on my bike.

Motorrad:
Just wanted to make sure somone was reading this stuff.. Nothing worse than a guy that posts and posts and no one cares... Didnt want to be "that guy"

I have looked at filing on it.. and dont see much to be gained..

I am going to lay out fluid the intake tomarrow and see if there is anything else that can be done..

Having to bend mine back, was only because I wasnt sure how much more clearance I would get with the spacer, so I bent them, so they would SQUEEZE in the intake once again.. that way I knew I had full travel.. as they had taken memory to my intake without the spacer.. (mine would only start to touch intake with about 1/16" before it hit bottom, Kawriders would start to rub about 1/2" before bottom..)

I also race H&H... and we will only see how they do, but I know a few guys that run 250's with them and no problems. so....

I cant answer the question about the blue vs metal valve... those are the pictures larry sent me tonight that he was kind enough to take while putting it in a box to ship to me tomarrow.



Here is a picture I seem to forgot to post, (now that I look back over the thread)..
Pics of differant sides (all I have right now and crank is out being rebuilt now) But every inch of my bearing journals had spun marks like this.. On both sides.

Crank journals Before sent off to hardchrome (cant see, but the ignitino side was undersized and the main bearing could be put on and taken off by hand.... (both at room temp)..

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And After hardchrome (yes that is a spot of dirt on lower right corner) and center streek is a reflection

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If this wasnt a special crank, I would have just started from scratch with a new one, or a GOOD used one..
But being that it had some of these

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I wanted to do everything in my power to make them usable..

So As a favor to me (and them liking our VERY VERY large account with them at work). the company that does all our hard crome plate for hydrolic rams shafts etc, plated the journals back up for me..

Not sure on the thickness of the hard plate, I just told them the Final spec I wanted them to be, and that I would like as much of the damage gone as possible..

I do know it is ground to final Diameter...

1.1825 rings a bell off the top of my head (have to go look at my notes to be positive, But they are now your standard bearing press spec, with about .0005 less on the ignition side..

Going to have to use HEAT, and Dry Ice to get it together easy.. as its a bit more snug than stock..

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Got my crank back today..

Looks AWSOME.. nicer than when I sent it to him... and I cleaned it before it went shocked

Was packed GREAT... was actually in bag, in a box, packed with SPRAY foam... then inside another box with news paper as a damper between those two boxes... then IN ANOTHER box.. with news paper betwen those two... YES 3 boxes...

Going to throw it in some V-blocks tonight and check work..
(trust no one).

Being that this guy has a few land speed records, and does vintage road race stuff... And after chattin with him several times... I say he is 110%

Thank you to Doldguy for pointing me in his direction...

Okay. just came in from checking his work (and chatting to several of you on the phone cool )

And I am impressed.. I had to take my dial indicators off to make sure they worked.. This crank is TRUE!

Got my goodie package from Larry..

I had to show a good friend of mine a stock head to convince him it wasn't a factory item!

Also.. when Larry says he can fix heads... HE MEANS IT.

I sent him my Old one for measurement reasons.

He tells me "I can fix that"...

Now that I see it... WOW..

Here is how it was before

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I was pulling pieces of small end bearing out of it like this!

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And here it is after a visit to Larry. Our resident miracle worker.

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Nothing "special" happened today so far..

Checked the fit of the head to barrel... (while waiting for crank to get cold in the freezer, and sockets to get hot in the oven)

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Which resulted in
Lapping the head to the barrel..

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And put the crank in the cases... (Hoooray, bottom end is DONE).

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The crank was at a 58% balance factor...

But after talking to my crank guy. and taking alot of weight out of the piston assembly.( Thank you Kaw Rider) I am now at 60.4%..

which that number (if you play with the program, etc I posted up). has the LEAST amount of forces on the rod. and also the least up and down vibe.

Crank guy said it should be really good, as long as the chassis harmonics play nice.. as alot of balance has to do with chassis...

we shall see...

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Stuck for the night.

put in all the oil seals..

and took a tip from Kaw Rider.
http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.ph ... 534.0.html

Used a center punch and a SMALL hamer to Peen up the area, so the JB has somthing to stick to.. (NOTE my cases have been in the Hot parts washer for about 8hrs.. Then sprayed down with 2 cans of brake cleen, then I wirebrushed the areas that were going to be JB'ed, with Acetone... If yours are OILY... JB wont stick..)

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Okay I lied... I wasnt stuck for the night..

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Dutch-K5 Fan:

Motorrad, the 58% balance factor. Is that the amount that your stuffed crank already was, or was it balanced to that number? Found out that mine stock crank is at 52.5%. I'm verry curious how your gonna run.

Motorrad:

The 58% is what my stuffed crank already was.. Just happend that way..

(that is with a OEM rod, and windowed wiseco piston, OEM wrist pin)..


I have since had Kawrider take 30g out of the piston..
which puts me at 60%...

and as I stated before, if you play with that crank program I put up in the (home balance factor) thread... it has the least ammount of force on the rod, and seems to put the direction of forces in the horizontal plane very well..

Chatted with my crank guy regarding it.. and it seems it should work very nice.. (assuming chassis harmonics play nice)..

chassis harmonics are a funny thing..

I went this route, as if it vibes like crazy.. I can just swap in a windowed piston with wiseco wrist pin and run back down to 56% But I think, from my research, the 60% may be a good thing.

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Well.. got my Other sets of rings I ordered....

all spec in at .019" or .020..

Looks like wiseco runs their rings loose to be safe.. (So they dont fail when dummys break them in, etc)...

So Kawrider said he can get me a set of aftermarket rings (same size as wiseco) that come in at .010 out of the box... (so i can file to fit, or run at that spec if I wish)..

So set of rings on order

Anyone want to buy some NEW wiseco rings... make you a deal on em...

Okay.. now for some fun experimentation..

A buddy of mine has a blown up Kdx 220 .. So I snagged his flywheel to look at. As the one sandblaster posted up is NEARLY identical to mine..

interesting thing..

the KDX magnet strength is TONS stronger than my 91 flywheel.. (better magnets? or loss of magnetism) you decide... But the KDX one does weigh 3.5oz more... I contribute it to magnets..

If one was to use the woodrif key, it would be out of time.. (as seen here)
The red screwdriver is where OEM timing mark should be (when using key), yellow is where it ends up on the KDX flywheel.

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Also the HUb is on the wrong side of the flywheel.. causing rub issues on the stator screws...

Going to play with it as much as I can, without cutting on it (cant talk my buddy out of it, as I originaly started the CDI swap idea on here because of this bike..).. the KDX's rev much better than the 500...and have the same weight flywheel.. tells me to look at cdi..

But if one was to not use the key to time it... stronger magnets are a good thing..

anyone ever rivet flywheels back together? if one was to cut it, move plate to inside, and re-rivit closer in clock of 500 flywheel ... Hmmm..