Installing a VForce 2 Reed valve in a KX500

[Sandblaster]

Installing a VForce 2 Reed valve in a KX500.
To get a VForce 2 Reed valve for a KX500 you will need to buy an NOS or a used one.
Why?
Apparently MOTO TASSINARI thought they had a better idea with the VForce 3 Reed Valve.
Unfortunately, they were WRONG!!!!
But my complaint on that will be documented in another article
The first thing you notice is that the carb boot just don't work....

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So, you need to cut the ears off...
I recommend leaving the ears a little long so you can fine grind them to size.

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That's better..

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After cutting the ears, the next thing I noticed is the difference between the carb opening and the reed opening.
Marked in yellow you can see the huge difference.
My first instinct was to dremel out the difference.
But you don't want to do this as you will lower the port velocity.
I'll cover more of that in a bit.

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Note how the reed pedal clamp is slotted?

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Here is what the boot looks like after it has been ground to it's final size:

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It's hard to see but the mating surface is very smooth after grinding it on a 80 grit 18" diameter wheel.
The smooth surface is important for mating but also marking.

[Sandblaster]

Here is where MR. Motorrad really saved my bacon.
I'll be using a larger carburetor so I need to try to maintain the correct velocity.
If I make the hole to big I will loose velocity, too small and I will loose top end.
So how on earth do you decide.
To begin with even the stock boot is too large so if you don't plan on using a larger carb and modding your engine don't mess with it.
Simply bolt it on with some Yamagoo (Yamabond) and call it good.
Since I am going to do some mods I will need to enlarge it slightly to un-shroud the outer reeds so as not to starve the boost ports.
But how on earth do you know how much is too much?
MR. Motorrad asked me if I had a V-Force 3 laying around.
Yes I do...
What we want to do is use the hole pattern from the V-Force 3 stuffer and transfer that pattern to the stock boot.
But, how can you accurately do that?
Once you get your boot ears off and it is properly ground you want to take the V-Force 3 reed and put 4 small dabs of silicone on the stuffer block.
Assemble the boot with the V-Force 3 reed on your cylinder and let it dry.
Once the silicone is dry you remove everything while leaving the V-Force stuffer attached to the boot.
Then you can mark the boot, Dremel it, and use it.
I will have some pics showing how by tomorrow....
So, stay tuned..

[Sandblaster]

You can see spots where the silicone was applied.
Just a small dab will do you.
I applied it to the back of the stuffer only.

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Then I bolted it all together and let it dry over night.

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The next morning I carefully removed the bolts and pulled the boot and reed out.
Then I carefully removed the reed which left the stuffer behind.
You can see the difference in the opening size..

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Then I marked the difference.

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After I marked it, I pulled the stuffer off leaving just the boot with the yellow marks that I will carefully remove.

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After a few minutes with the Dremel using a drum sander attachment, the boot is looking good..

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[Sandblaster]

Ok, so your all ready to install your new set up right?
Not so fast Jack.....
You still need to set the Tension on the reed pedals.
How is this done?
Look carefully at the reed clamp.
Note that they are slotted.

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According to Moto Tassinari the Low tension setting is for low to mid range power and the hi tension setting is for High end power.
After conversing with Motorrad and others who have dyno'd all the different combinations they found that the low tension setting did nothing more on the KX500 then wear the reed pedals out faster.
So, I will use the Hi Tension settings.
Here is a pic demonstrating the high tension vs. low tension settings.

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Note that there is a .004" gap when you set the reed clamp closest the carburetor making it harder to open the reed pedals.
When you set the reed clamp further from the carburetor there is a .050" gap allowing the reed pedals to open easier.
So just for the record:
Reed clamp closer to the carburetor = High tension setting
Reed clamp farther from the carburetor = Low tension setting

This is my story and I'm sticking to it for now

[Christopher]

Simply bolt it on with some Yamagoo (Yamabond) and call it good.

Is it necessary to use the Yamabond or will one the gaskets I have work? I believe I have enough gaskets from the spacer and new reeds I purchased.

Christopher

[Sandblaster]

I hate air leaks.... So I'd use Yamabond just to be safe...
And you don't need a bunch... Just a dab will do ya..

[Christopher]

By dab, do you mean a small bead around the perimeter of the boot?

Should I do the same with mating the spacer to the block and reed to the spacer, or will the gaskets be okay there?