KX500 HEAVY CLUTCH PULL, WHAT CAN BE DONE
- Sandblaster
- Posts: 6313
- Joined: Thu Jun 07, 2012 3:50 pm
- Location: Eugene, OR
- Contact:
KX500 HEAVY CLUTCH PULL, WHAT CAN BE DONE
By now I'd say most of you guys know what is being done to lesson clutch pull.
1. Straighten the cable a bit where the metal shield is at. And make sure the cable is new.
2. Cool aftermarket clutch perches.
3. Extended clutch puller arms.
4. Hydraulic clutch.
5. Basket and hub in good condition.
6. Use a OEM Clutch cable. (One lb lighter pull than a Motion Pro cable).
The other day Jason Tanner finally confided in me some ideas he has.... I think each one has merit but we need to be able to test each one out. Out of respect for Jason's idea's I can't post pics of what he came up with. But I will be posting results from each experiment to see what can be done.
Any idea's you may have would be welcome. We are looking for simple effective idea's that can be done by most guys with limited tools. (Like me).
The first thing we did was put together a mock up testing stand.. Nothing better the genuine Kawi parts
Once we get this together we will be doing some really cool testing so stay tuned..
1. Straighten the cable a bit where the metal shield is at. And make sure the cable is new.
2. Cool aftermarket clutch perches.
3. Extended clutch puller arms.
4. Hydraulic clutch.
5. Basket and hub in good condition.
6. Use a OEM Clutch cable. (One lb lighter pull than a Motion Pro cable).
The other day Jason Tanner finally confided in me some ideas he has.... I think each one has merit but we need to be able to test each one out. Out of respect for Jason's idea's I can't post pics of what he came up with. But I will be posting results from each experiment to see what can be done.
Any idea's you may have would be welcome. We are looking for simple effective idea's that can be done by most guys with limited tools. (Like me).
The first thing we did was put together a mock up testing stand.. Nothing better the genuine Kawi parts
Once we get this together we will be doing some really cool testing so stay tuned..
If bikes are for kids I'll never grow up.
- Sandblaster
- Posts: 6313
- Joined: Thu Jun 07, 2012 3:50 pm
- Location: Eugene, OR
- Contact:
Re: KX500 HEAVY CLUTCH PULL, WHAT CAN BE DONE
Travis Saturley: I move the clutch (and brake) perch in towards the middle of the bars. This causes me to only use the end of the lever, increasing my leverage. I have long fingers, so that may not work for everyone.
If bikes are for kids I'll never grow up.
- Sandblaster
- Posts: 6313
- Joined: Thu Jun 07, 2012 3:50 pm
- Location: Eugene, OR
- Contact:
Re: KX500 HEAVY CLUTCH PULL, WHAT CAN BE DONE
What I need is a very accurate test fixture..
So, I grabbed my best engine cases and set about gettin it done
Hello MR. Sawsall
So, I grabbed my best engine cases and set about gettin it done
Hello MR. Sawsall
If bikes are for kids I'll never grow up.
- Sandblaster
- Posts: 6313
- Joined: Thu Jun 07, 2012 3:50 pm
- Location: Eugene, OR
- Contact:
Re: KX500 HEAVY CLUTCH PULL, WHAT CAN BE DONE
Well... let's get rid of that pesky casing that covers the bottom bearing.
This will help later on during testing...
If bikes are for kids I'll never grow up.
- Sandblaster
- Posts: 6313
- Joined: Thu Jun 07, 2012 3:50 pm
- Location: Eugene, OR
- Contact:
Re: KX500 HEAVY CLUTCH PULL, WHAT CAN BE DONE
Something like this....
If bikes are for kids I'll never grow up.
- Sandblaster
- Posts: 6313
- Joined: Thu Jun 07, 2012 3:50 pm
- Location: Eugene, OR
- Contact:
Re: KX500 HEAVY CLUTCH PULL, WHAT CAN BE DONE
I have a few more parts ready to go.
As soon as my new digital pull scale I should be able to start testing.
As soon as my new digital pull scale I should be able to start testing.
If bikes are for kids I'll never grow up.
- Sandblaster
- Posts: 6313
- Joined: Thu Jun 07, 2012 3:50 pm
- Location: Eugene, OR
- Contact:
Re: KX500 HEAVY CLUTCH PULL, WHAT CAN BE DONE
Another thing that can be done is get a new OEM clutch cable.
A new OEM clutch cable pulls one pound lighter than a new Motion Pro clutch cable... Yeah... get a OEM
A new OEM clutch cable pulls one pound lighter than a new Motion Pro clutch cable... Yeah... get a OEM
If bikes are for kids I'll never grow up.
-
- Posts: 31
- Joined: Sun May 13, 2018 5:15 am
Re: KX500 HEAVY CLUTCH PULL, WHAT CAN BE DONE
I was looking for some advice on how to get a Rekluse Radius X set up correctly when I found this post. I have a bit of advice on a stock KX500 clutch though. (Even though I have possibly put one together a little wrong once or twice myself though.)
First, the KX500 clutch, in its stock form, is usually more than beefy enough to get the job done! (Usually)... That being said, most of the clutch kits out there for it are comprised of what “appear” to be beefier friction plates, and come with stiffer springs. Much stiffer. The steel plates are also of a different hardness. Those first two things both affect clutch pull to a great degree! They can also affect how the clutch behaves during heavy feathering as well as winter operation. There is no perfect clutch, but most K5 owners have to admit this one fact; they don’t wear out quickly, and they don’t fail often. Usually neglect is the cause of degradation. If you don’t remember how good the original clutch felt, it will cost you quite a bit to go all OEM, and good luck finding a new basket!
Second, it’s mainly about the cable. At least as far as smoothness goes. Smooth is easier. Easier is lighter. Lighter is good-er. I have had good results with OEM, Motion Pro, and Moose. My favorite was a TerryCable, back in the day. If you can find one of those in working condition though, you should get into alpine narwhal hunting, because you are either lucky or good! The biggest issue with the cable is routing though. A lot of people try to send it down the headset, and then across the front of the engine, then into the bend. NO! Too many direction changes. The only good way is out of the perch, across the top of the top number plate bolt, then a sweeping and descending left heading around the. FRONT of the frame down tube (just behind the front fender. It will possibly rub a little) and then the formed bend will head through the exhaust pipe bend, but not touch it. This results in no direction changes. Just a single continuous curve. I have also used a cushion clamp to hold it still, attached to the top right radiator mount bolt. This minimizes the change in feel when the handlebars are off center. This will result in a lot less cable friction.
Third, not all levers are created equal! There are certain lever geometric designs that result in more or less leverage. More leverage is lighter, but it moves the cable a shorter distance. There are those that do the opposite though. Either have detrimental effects. These levers are all designed for smaller clutches than the 5hundo. (It makes little difference though). The real difference comes at the bell crank. That is the lever in the case that pushes the clutch push rod. If you look at it, the end game of that lever is just a flat spot on a shaft. The flatter that spot is in relation to the push rod at the start of actuation, the harder the pull will be, but the movement of the push rod in relation to the movement of the hand lever will be the greatest. This also corresponds to the least compression of the clutch springs at the beginning of the pull though. As the bell crank transits through its arc, the flat spot becomes perpendicular to the end of the push rod, which gives it increasingly more leverage, but less travel in relation to the hand lever. When you go to a new clutch pack, or wear one out, the overall depth of the pack changes. This moves the pressure plate, which in turn moves the push rod. This greatly effects the angle at which the bell crank begins to actually move the rod, And thus how hard the pull is, or how far the pull travels the rod, this can be adjusted using shims under the throw out bearing hat. I have seen people attempt to lengthen the portion of the bell crank where the cable joins in an effort to reduce pull force. It does that, but also makes the clutch drag because it doesn’t disengage fully. It’s like only pulling in the clutch lever half way. Don’t do that mod!
Anyway, these are just things to consider when monkeying around with clutch geometry. The biggest thing to consider with almost all aspects of the KX500 though is to just realize that it wasn’t meant to be ridden by a little measly girlie man, and if the clutch is too hard to pull, then it’s either in bad shape, or you are!
Just my 2 cents...
Brent.
First, the KX500 clutch, in its stock form, is usually more than beefy enough to get the job done! (Usually)... That being said, most of the clutch kits out there for it are comprised of what “appear” to be beefier friction plates, and come with stiffer springs. Much stiffer. The steel plates are also of a different hardness. Those first two things both affect clutch pull to a great degree! They can also affect how the clutch behaves during heavy feathering as well as winter operation. There is no perfect clutch, but most K5 owners have to admit this one fact; they don’t wear out quickly, and they don’t fail often. Usually neglect is the cause of degradation. If you don’t remember how good the original clutch felt, it will cost you quite a bit to go all OEM, and good luck finding a new basket!
Second, it’s mainly about the cable. At least as far as smoothness goes. Smooth is easier. Easier is lighter. Lighter is good-er. I have had good results with OEM, Motion Pro, and Moose. My favorite was a TerryCable, back in the day. If you can find one of those in working condition though, you should get into alpine narwhal hunting, because you are either lucky or good! The biggest issue with the cable is routing though. A lot of people try to send it down the headset, and then across the front of the engine, then into the bend. NO! Too many direction changes. The only good way is out of the perch, across the top of the top number plate bolt, then a sweeping and descending left heading around the. FRONT of the frame down tube (just behind the front fender. It will possibly rub a little) and then the formed bend will head through the exhaust pipe bend, but not touch it. This results in no direction changes. Just a single continuous curve. I have also used a cushion clamp to hold it still, attached to the top right radiator mount bolt. This minimizes the change in feel when the handlebars are off center. This will result in a lot less cable friction.
Third, not all levers are created equal! There are certain lever geometric designs that result in more or less leverage. More leverage is lighter, but it moves the cable a shorter distance. There are those that do the opposite though. Either have detrimental effects. These levers are all designed for smaller clutches than the 5hundo. (It makes little difference though). The real difference comes at the bell crank. That is the lever in the case that pushes the clutch push rod. If you look at it, the end game of that lever is just a flat spot on a shaft. The flatter that spot is in relation to the push rod at the start of actuation, the harder the pull will be, but the movement of the push rod in relation to the movement of the hand lever will be the greatest. This also corresponds to the least compression of the clutch springs at the beginning of the pull though. As the bell crank transits through its arc, the flat spot becomes perpendicular to the end of the push rod, which gives it increasingly more leverage, but less travel in relation to the hand lever. When you go to a new clutch pack, or wear one out, the overall depth of the pack changes. This moves the pressure plate, which in turn moves the push rod. This greatly effects the angle at which the bell crank begins to actually move the rod, And thus how hard the pull is, or how far the pull travels the rod, this can be adjusted using shims under the throw out bearing hat. I have seen people attempt to lengthen the portion of the bell crank where the cable joins in an effort to reduce pull force. It does that, but also makes the clutch drag because it doesn’t disengage fully. It’s like only pulling in the clutch lever half way. Don’t do that mod!
Anyway, these are just things to consider when monkeying around with clutch geometry. The biggest thing to consider with almost all aspects of the KX500 though is to just realize that it wasn’t meant to be ridden by a little measly girlie man, and if the clutch is too hard to pull, then it’s either in bad shape, or you are!
Just my 2 cents...
Brent.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 3 guests